Rann Odyssey

I always wonder why we love to travel, and the reason might be found out by only more and more travelling. This time our destination was India’s western most state of Gujarat. It was the summer time (as far temperatures in Rann of Kutch are concerned) of March end; two of us (Vikas and Rohit) decided to have our bikes and body get tested the taste of extreme heat. Our target was to explore Great Rann of Kutch and Little Rann of Kutch.

Route :

Mumbai – Ahmedabad – Viramgam – Dhrangadhra – Malia – Samkhiyali – Bhachau – Bhuj – Bhachau – Samkhiyali – Lakadia – Chitrod – Palasava – Zinzuwada – Zainabad – Viramgam - Ahmedabad – Mumbai

We started the journey from Mumbai on 23^rd March evening at around 5:30 evening and drove straight to Surat city for having our dinner. We ate splendid delicacies of some food variants. I must admit that once in a lifetime all should visit Surat city for greater food experience and am sure people will fall in love with the varieties and taste. After having our dinner at around 11 in night, we headed to Bharuch and took a room in hotel Sarvottam, located somewhere approx 2 kms after Bharuch on NH8. Location of hotel Sarvottam and its rooms are good, considering 800 bucks for double AC room.

On 24^th March early morning, we took our breakfast and started our bikes to cover the distance till Bhuj in time. I must praise Gujarat govt. for developing such magnificent roads in entire state.  Rohit was busy in entire route clicking pictures of excellent highways of Gujarat, while mostly I was busy in riding my bike steadily at 120 kms per hour. By 5:30 in evening, we reached Bhuj, our base for next 2 days. We headed straight to BSF Sector Headquarters to collect our permit for Vighakot. Vighakot is also referred as Zero Point and is last border post on India-Pakistan international border assessable to civilians. For visiting this point, one needs to have permit. It’s mentioned in various sources, that it would take less than a week's time for permits. Infact, it took us 15+ days for the complete permit procedure. Since we were travelling from Mumbai, we thought not to take chance and applied for border visit permit in advance by 20 days. After collecting our permit for Vighakot, we went to our hotel and rested for the night.

  

On 25^th March, we started early in the morning at around 6:30 AM. This was required since we were to cover Kalo Dungar, India Bridge, Vighakot and Dhordo and time constraint was a major factor. The distances from Bhuj includes approx 80 kms India Bridge and approx 177 kms Vighakot. For visiting India Bridge, tourists don’t need permit but they can’t go beyond this point. If you are visiting Vighakot, it’s mandatory to return back to India Bridge before 6 PM and hence we went directly to India Bridge to proceed to Vighakot with permits. Photography is not allowed before and after India Bridge. The BSF personnel’s will warn you for this before entering India Bridge. After crossing India Bridge, we stopped at BSF post to show our permit. The original permit was retained by the officer in Charge and information was mentioned in register with our ID particulars. As per rules, we kept our mobiles and cameras with them. We were courteously given description about the route by the officer and were strictly warned not to miss the route and divert into Rann, else we will find ourselves nowhere as the Rann route is very much complicated. To our luck, we found 2 electric contractors going towards one of the BOP’s at border area and both of them agreed to accompany us to show the route. After covering approx 10-12 kms, we stopped at Dharmshala post, where we were again required to enter our arrival details in register maintained there. After entering our details, two of us went ahead with the electrical contractors. Just after crossing the post area, the two guys left the road head and diverted left to ride in middle of the Rann. This drive of approx 15 odd kms through Rann was scary and at the same time mind blowing. On both sides of the road head we could sense water at the horizon, but it was only an illusion. The entire stretch is uninhabited except finding BSF personnel’s. After covering distance of approx 80 kms, we reached Vighakot post at around 11:30 AM. We were given warm welcome by the officer in Command and were given free service of an officer to gain knowledge about the place. While we were busy in exploring India-Pakistan border, we were given special service by BSF offering Water and TEA in a tray. It was an awesome feeling as we were sitting in a hotel and the waiter was carrying all the things in a tray to serve us. We can’t forget this nice gesture of theirs in our entire life. After a while, we took our pre-ordered lunch and restarted out journey back to India Bridge at around 2 PM. We felt privileged as we could visit a border post where most civilians doesn’t think of going and definitely it was also a proud moment for us to interact with BSF and gain knowledge about our nation, India. We were lucky enough to get in close at the border fence and to pillar no 1111, the point where officers from both sides holds flag meeting every three months. Since time was less, we skipped Hanuman Temple some 20 kms approx from Dharmshala post and reached India Bridge at around 4 PM. We took our luggage kept at the post and went to Kalo Dungar. This is probably the only place in Kutch from where a panoramic view of the Great Rann of Kutch is possible. Since it is located very near to the Pakistan border, there is an Army post at the top; beyond here, only military personnel are allowed. This is the place one can have a miss as it was not at all worth to expectations, as per us. At around 5 we left for Dhordo, the place from where one can see miles of White Rann (White Desert). To visit Dhordo one needs permit which can be obtained from Bhirandiyara.  We took some nice snaps of sunset on White Rann and went back to Bhuj at around 9 PM. We were to stay at White Rann till late in night to have night photography under moon, but to our utter disappointment the moon came visible very late and till then we had already left the place in frustration.

 

 

On 26^th morning, we left early to visit Little Rann of Kutch. We took Bhachau-Palasava route. Palasava is a small village where you can’t expect food facilities, hence prepare yourself in advance for welcoming adverse situations. Traversing Little Rann of Kutch from Palasava to Zainabad is almost 100 kms long distance and is mostly uninhabited. Just fuel up your tank before Palasava, have enough food and water supplies with you, get knowledge of repairing bike in middle of no man’s land and, that’s all. Good old man, in Palasava village bus stand, guided us to starting point of Rann and there we were. It was scary ride till 2-4 kms with average speed not going over 10-20 kms per hour, as the stretch was having much sand and driving in sand was difficult as bike skidding was a major threat to us. After a short drive, there came the trail stretch having almost no sand and here we started to go beyond 80 kms per hour. Enroute we stopped at Vachhraj Temple, some 30 kms before Zinzuwada exit. There was a pond near the temple, and by every means this may be the best birding spot. After spending almost half hour, we headed towards Zinzuwada. We also cited some Wild Ass enroute. One can plan well in advance to make sure for a good safari organised through their hotel or resort, to have better glimpse of wild life in Little Rann. We were not lucky enough as were short of time and couldn’t experience more in little Rann. Importantly, one shouldn’t miss the trail road as you may find up yourself left deserted with unidentified trails in middle of the Rann. There are some pillars and flag markings on the main trail which keeps guiding you throughout the route. Visiting Little Rann of Kutch requires permit. Permit can be obtained from Zainabad or can be arranged through your hotel. Permit can also be obtained from Bajana, another route to enter Little Rann. Bajana is some 20 kms before Dhrangadhra. Good resort options as well forest department’s camp sites are there at Bajana and Zainabad.

 

 

 

After exiting Zinzuwada we went through to Viramgam - Ahmedabad - Mumbai route, halted near Vadodara for night and on 27^th afternoon reached Mumbai with mesmerising memories of the trip. We were not so much happy as just 2 days were not enough for experiencing entire Kutch and surely will plan more for Kutch in near future. The total distance covered by us on bike was approx 2240 kms.

That’s all folks, for now.. Over to my routine life with office.. Errrrrr.